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Skirts: Fashioning Modern Femininity in the Twentieth Century

de Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell

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396637,893 (3.94)12
"In a sparkling, beautifully illustrated social history, Skirts traces the shifting roles of women over the twentieth century through the era's most iconic and influential dresses. While the story of women's liberation has often been framed by the growing acceptance of pants over the twentieth century, the most important and influential female fashions of the era featured skirts. Suffragists and soldiers marched in skirts; the heroines of the Civil Rights Movement took a stand in skirts. Frida Kahlo and Georgia O'Keeffe revolutionized modern art and Marie Curie won two Nobel Prizes in skirts. When NASA put a man on the moon, "the computer wore a skirt," in the words of one of those "computers", mathematician Katherine G. Johnson. As women made strides towards equality in the voting booth, the workforce, and the world at large, their wardrobes evolved with them. They did not need to "wear the pants" to be powerful or progressive; the dress itself became modern as designers like Mariano Fortuny, Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, and Diane von Furstenberg redefined femininity for a new era. Skirts looks at the history of twentieth-century womenswear through the lens of game-changing styles like the Little Black Dress and the Bar Suit, as well as more obscure innovations like the Taxi dress or the Popover dress, which came with a matching potholder. These influential garments illuminate the times in which they were first worn-and the women who wore them-while continuing to shape contemporary fashion and even opening the door for a genderfluid future of skirts. At once an authoritative work of history and a delightfully entertaining romp through decades of fashion, Skirts charts the changing fortunes, freedoms, and aspirations of women themselves"--… (mais)
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Fashion historian Chrisman-Campbell looks at the history of women’s fashion in the twentieth century through ten iconic styles: the Delphos, the tennis skirt, the little black dress, the wrap dress, the strapless dress, the bar suit, the naked dress, the miniskirt, the midi skirt, and the bodycon dress. Each chapter includes one or two black and white illustrations, plus there are 22 color plates. It’s still not enough illustrations, and most readers will need to Google images of some of the looks that are discussed that don’t have accompanying illustrations. This really needed to be a coffee table book, although it would have increased the cost and decreased its reach. I was hoping for more of a high street fashion history, which would have been of more interest to me than this history of high fashion and designer labels. ( )
  cbl_tn | Mar 24, 2024 |
The author's fascination with dresses led her to study the history of 20th century women's clothing, but particularly that of dresses. Rather than a chronological approach, the author devoted chapters to particular styles of dresses and discussed how they evolved. Each chapter included a black and white photo, and there is a section of color plates near the back. I found myself disappointed in the book, mainly because the author really only looked at a certain level of fashion designers and movie stars, presidential wives, and other wealthier classes of people. While these were certainly the influencers of fashion design, it would have been interesting to see how these things filtered down to the working middle class so we could see and read about examples of what the everyday person wore. I also think the book needed more photos, including color photos, with each chapter--more like a coffee table type book would offer. It's a quick read, but I think it missed some opportunities to tell a richer story. ( )
1 vote thornton37814 | Mar 20, 2024 |
"Skirts" is a look back at women's dress and skirt fashions, not just as articles of clothing, but as icons of culture. Each chapter in the book examines a different kind of skirt or dress throughout the twentieth century. I am sure this book is more interesting when the photos and pictures are included (they were not in this ARC). This book would appeal to readers who are interested in the history of fashions and their impact on the lives of the wearers, as well as what they represent in society.

I received this book from the publisher and from NetGalley in exchange for an honest review. The opinions represented here are my own. ( )
  LadyoftheLodge | Sep 28, 2022 |
Who says non-fiction stands for not-fun, NOT ME!

Skirts is more than just a history of an article of clothing, it is a glimpse back into pop culture throughout the past century plus.

I will definitely have to check out a final copy with all the pictures included. I'm very lucky to have read an advanced copy of this book, ahead of it's pub date but I can't wait to see all the glossy pictures the final copy will no doubt have! ( )
  julesbailey9 | Sep 13, 2022 |
This book was an interesting look at women’s clothing throughout the twentieth century, primarily skirts and dresses, and how those styles became trends and influenced the fashion of the everyday woman on the street as well as the rich and famous and demonstrated just how powerful the designers were and how they were followed almost without question. I know almost nothing about high fashion so most of the designers were not familiar to me. However, the history timeline and the impact these designers, both men and women, had on not only fashion but politics, social mores the reputations of women, and the giving or taking of their power based on what they wore was an eye-opener, as was just how competitive, cutthroat, petty and unprofessional most of them were.

Each chapter is devoted to a particular garment - Tennis Dress, Strapless Dress, Miniskirt, Little Black Dress, Wrap Dress, Naked Dress, etc. – and the designer associated with it. Even though each chapter addressed one dress or style, the author did jump around quite a bit in time so names and events repeated and were often confusing. The only real drawback to the advanced e-copy I received was that it did not include pictures. I tried looking up each particular dress or designer as I was reading but it was cumbersome and negatively affected the flow of the book.

Thanks to St. Martin’s Press for providing an advance copy of Skirts via NetGalley in exchange for my honest review. All in all it was an enjoyable read and made some fascinating points about the evolution of women’s fashion and some of the meaning and impact behind it. I was a little put off by the author’s repeated declarations that she only wears skirts and the impression that the designers were not interested in dressing anything but the perfect body. All opinions are my own. ( )
  GrandmaCootie | Sep 6, 2022 |
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"In a sparkling, beautifully illustrated social history, Skirts traces the shifting roles of women over the twentieth century through the era's most iconic and influential dresses. While the story of women's liberation has often been framed by the growing acceptance of pants over the twentieth century, the most important and influential female fashions of the era featured skirts. Suffragists and soldiers marched in skirts; the heroines of the Civil Rights Movement took a stand in skirts. Frida Kahlo and Georgia O'Keeffe revolutionized modern art and Marie Curie won two Nobel Prizes in skirts. When NASA put a man on the moon, "the computer wore a skirt," in the words of one of those "computers", mathematician Katherine G. Johnson. As women made strides towards equality in the voting booth, the workforce, and the world at large, their wardrobes evolved with them. They did not need to "wear the pants" to be powerful or progressive; the dress itself became modern as designers like Mariano Fortuny, Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, and Diane von Furstenberg redefined femininity for a new era. Skirts looks at the history of twentieth-century womenswear through the lens of game-changing styles like the Little Black Dress and the Bar Suit, as well as more obscure innovations like the Taxi dress or the Popover dress, which came with a matching potholder. These influential garments illuminate the times in which they were first worn-and the women who wore them-while continuing to shape contemporary fashion and even opening the door for a genderfluid future of skirts. At once an authoritative work of history and a delightfully entertaining romp through decades of fashion, Skirts charts the changing fortunes, freedoms, and aspirations of women themselves"--

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