Kenneth D. King

The moulage is the foundation of the pattern drafting system taught by the Ecole Guerre-Lavigne in Paris. This is a system of measuring the figure, calculating, and drafting a pattern that will fit the torso like a second skin, incorporating any of the infinite variations of shape the human figure can take.The book starts out with an introduction and some history of the development of pattern drafting systems. This is followed by a discussion of the proper way to measure the figure, for this system. The CD-ROM, which is made for QuickTime Player, shows a video demonstration of these measurements.

Calculations of the measurements follow. Measurements are in both inches, and metric. The book then proceeds to show, step by step, how to draft the moulage back, then the front. Common adjustments to the muslin is next, followed by instructions on drafting the men's moulage.

From the Moulage the book will cover how to add wearing ease to create the sloper, or block (the basic unit of pattern drafting). A chapter on "special cases" follows, covering unusual situations such as osteoporosis.

Finally A discussion of how to use your sloper to check a commercial pattern will enable you to use this tool as a fitting aid, making it easier to adjust patterns to your figure.… (mais)

I found very little usable information in this nicely photographed book. It was more aimed at what I think of as "embellishment" rather than what I think of as "bead embroidery". This book gave lots of examples of adding a few beads in lovely patterns to the edges of scarves, and to one's lapels or cuffs. It's a great resource for this application, but I was looking for something more tailored to the stand-alone bead embroidered piece that doesn't let a scrap of the backing fabric show through. I did read it all, though, and it held my interest but didn't spark any desire to try the techniques.… (mais)